‘We’re The Bugatti of Bourbons’ Mystic Distillery Rides Wave of Handcrafted Bourbon’s Popularity

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“Jaguar and BMW are for the masses. We are the Bugatti of bourbons,” said Durham lawyer turned distiller Jonathan Blitz, co-owner of Mystic Distillery. Its flagship brand, Broken Oak, has won a slew of gold and other prizes at the prestigious San Francisco World Spirits competition including 2023’s Best 5 Year Small Batch Bourbon.

Mystic operates on a 22-acre farm in rural Durham County, North Carolina. It produces an average of six barrels of Broken Oak and other high-end handcrafted bourbons a week. Bottles are sold at the distillery, where visitors are also offered tours. “During our two-hour tour, Jim Beam would have topped my annual production,” laughed Blitz.

If It Ain’t From Kentucky…

First things first. Bourbon connoisseurs sniff that true bourbon must come from Kentucky. “Not so,” said Blitz. “The whole Kentucky thing is just marketing.”

Bourbon must be at least 51% corn liquor with a maximum proof at distillation of 80% ABV. The grains comprising the other 49% are at the discretion of the distiller. Broken Oak adds 45% wheat to its bourbon mash bill. Some of Mystic’s bourbons include triticale in the mash bill, which is a rye/wheat hybrid that grows well in the Piedmont.

The first corn whiskies were distilled in North Carolina in 1682. “We have better conditions, water, and grains here,” said Blitz. Bourbon distilling moved to Kentucky when North Carolinians relocated there. A series of laws, including prohibition, sidelined legal distilling in the state from 1908 until 2005 when North Carolina got its first post-prohibition distillery.

Growing Demand for Bourbon

The bourbon industry has been growing at over 10% annually in recent years with $8.85 B forecast for 2025. In 2023, the number of craft distillers nationally grew by 11.5% to a total of 3,069.

Mystic’s top-of-the-line, Broken Oak, costs $200 a bottle. Prices of other NC craft bourbons like those produced by Weldon Mills and Olde Raleigh range from $50 to $100. By comparison, mass-market, high-end bourbons like Elijah Craig, Buffalo Trace, and Woodford Reserve are in the $50 to $80 range.

A Rainbow of Flavors

Mystic’s grains are grown on a 150-acre farm in Hillsborough, NC. The water comes from the 260-million-year-old Triassic Basin Aquifer beneath the distillery. Blitz said the shale and limestone in the water make it perfect for bourbon.

The grains and water are combined and boiled at the distillery to produce a mash which ferments for at least 14 days to create a spirit called “white dog.” It is refined through “cuts.”

“The cut is the most important part of the process,” explained Blitz. “Think of it as a rainbow of flavors. The beginning and end of the rainbow are not good. What comes out in the middle is good, and that’s what we’re trying to keep. We tend to be known for an extremely smooth bourbon with a complex nose and a real buttery finish.”

The final distillate will be aged in new, charred oak barrels stored in Mystic’s rickhouse for at least four years. “Every barrel ages differently, and you have to select each barrel based on smell and taste.”

‘Taste This’

Blitz described himself as a “business angry litigation attorney” who handled civil and criminal cases turned entrepreneur. One evening, close friend Mike Sinclair handed him a mason jar and said, “Taste this.” Sinclair, a software tech, home brewer, and former Red Oak brewer, created the concoction out of bourbon, nine-spice tea, and wildflower honey. “It was pleasant, sweet, and happy. I said this is going to sell like crazy,” recalled Blitz.

“You have to be a lunatic and a narcissist to get into distilling.” Nonetheless, Blitz and Sinclair began producing Mystic Bourbon Liqueur in October 2013. After two years, when they couldn’t get enough bourbon to keep up with demand for their product, they started distilling their own.

Despite its success, Mystic has no interest in becoming a large national brand. “To us, there’s no point in trying to compete on a $25 or $30 a bottle of bourbon, we’d go bankrupt,” said Blitz. “So, to make the business model work, every week we make six barrels of the best bourbon on earth.”

Bob Friedman

Robert "Bob" Friedman is the publisher of Attorney at Law Magazine North Carolina Triangle. He contributes articles and interviews to each issue.

Comments 2

  1. Alex says:

    I agree… what are the tasting notes?.. how is it on the nose?..etc..

  2. Robert Butler says:

    So what’s the taste like? Lot of smoke but what does it taste like? Palette and finish🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

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